All Chef Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on List of London’s Best Restaurants.

When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.